Ein Kleines Salzburg

The view from Mozart’s house in Salzburg.

I have discovered that most Austrians I know are not particularly eager to discuss their country’s favorite son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. They are bored to death. Sort of how I imagine the elves feel when visitors to the North Pole squeal, “Oh, I just love Santa! What is he really like?”

But Mozart is cooler than Santa; he didn’t need any elves to help him make the gifts he gave us. And no matter how many times you’ve heard it, his music rocks. Remember the first time you heard Eine Kleine… or the overture to Don Giovanni or Die Zauberfloete? Now, shut up and smile when visitors go nuts over the little man and his music.

Went on a road trip that included Salzburg, a good 3 hours from Graz, right through the Alps. Beautiful drive through the awesome mountains, even with the spitting sleet and obnoxious German drivers in their oversized cars.

Wilde Mann for lunch with great zwiebel rost braten, goulash and spaetzle with cheese; cheap, too. Narrow, curvy streets, lots of Japanese tourists, an Austrian parking garage carved in –where else?– a mountain, fantastical Dom–old stuff everywhere. And Mozart’s ghost shivering in the cold, overcast February afternoon.

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